1986 C10 Instrument Cluster Swap-1

okay everyone this is an 86 c10 Chevy pickup my plan here is to show how to replace standard instrument cluster that has what they call the idiot lights all the warning lights we’re gonna put in the gauges that came with this year instead of having the warning lights I have another instrument cluster that I’m gonna swap out the only issue is you have to do some rewiring so I’ll show that as well at the same time I’m going to instead of using the incandescent lights we’re gonna try to switch over to LEDs to get a better or brighter instrument cluster because these are kind of dim and kind of hard to see during dusk and dawn areas so that’s basically it then next thing you’ll see is I’ll try to take a picture with the lights on at night and that way you get a example or an idea where I’m coming from but next thing you’ll see is um hopefully a bit in exchange and the wiring you everyone doing this at night of their the only time I had to do it so sorry about the the light and hopefully it doesn’t wash things out I took off the this guy here the best way to do this let’s get all the screws out there’s flips heads better in here just pulling right out in the process you will pull out of the dash a little bit but make sure you you have your parking brake on and you grab your of course turn the key a little bit and grab your your drive selector take all of it down to the first that way give you enough room there because this gets no way you try to pull it out that’s what you want to do just to get that that panel out so you know the best way to do it without breaking it and then at the same time later on take all the screws out especially around the gear selector here this gear selector has two screws that are in here you can see that or not just because they go in here I removed them already and it’s connected to the steering column you can see that or not just here so that’s kind of primitive but that’s how it’s done so you what you want to do is you want to remove the screws however your whole assembly that’s holding assembly in here right now this is loose this is from years of this is already cracked off some years of vibrating I guess but this won’t come out unless you remove the lens so make sure you take their screws off the lens that’s important there’s no reason to take this off the car itself you’re gonna have to fish this wire out carefully without breaking it attempted to do try to remember how it goes back in there and this is gonna stay in with the car basically so it moves around here goes through here and there’s no reason for me to take this out I mean it’s connected fine so I’m just gonna let it let it hang here for a little bit but right now we’re two both screws out and I’m ready to take this assembly out so that’ll be my next thing to do and keep you guys up to date then again I apologize for the night the night work done I got that – out you wanna make sure that you take apart or take off the speedometer because they’ll give you a pain this is for the the light that goes into the or domitor reading for your mileage and of course is the pin for the connector that we need to start taking apart the fix the pins so I forgot to mention that you should disconnect your

battery when you’re doing all this stuff again I can show you the back of the speedometer here if you could see it or not there’s this little tab here that you have to press to unlock the speedometer just when you up in there you have to go underneath the dash and when you’re in there just kind of press this tab here and it should release the speedometer and it’ll snap back in – as well cuz you’re pushing on this whole snap right in so that is basically it I’m gonna take the speedometer and the fuel gauge so the leaders look pretty good decent shape and I’m gonna put them into the new gauge cluster and we’ll see how it goes from there but so far that’s the only thing I ran into it’s it is a bear to get this out and you can see it’s not because you have to fiddle with it to get it out another tip to is loosen we have a vent here loosen this guy because that way you have room to bring them the casing down just kind of kinds of slides out that way so it’s a little bit of a challenge but uh you’ll get it I mean you figured out it’s not that big of a deal just be patient and back on nitrogen again huh that’s the pain it’s not the clearest the best I repend all of these now the best thing to do is get a schematic my schematic will show you what the pins are for the warning and idiot lights and I’ll show you also the scan on the schematic they’ll show you the wiring of the repinning of the for the gauge clusters so this give you an idea I haven’t find nobody who shows how to do this online but I can show you real quick how to take these pins out you take a small screwdriver like this and hopefully you can see what I’m doing here you go underneath the pin and you go as far as you can I mean don’t push too hard and you pry up a little bit what’s happening is this like a little tab tab that sticks out stops this pin from going that direction I’ll see if I can pull this out I pulled up on it again put the screwdriver in you pull up on it and she’d be able to push this out I don’t want to damage it a little too gentle there we go pin should pull right out and I’ll show you the tab I’m talking about well this it’s the gray one sorry for you um there’s an the light in the focus she’s your one okay here we go so pull this out and what you’re doing when you’re in that connector you’re just pushing up along this tab right here you see this tab just pushing this making it flat enough the way it pops back out and that’s basically it to put them back I kind of pry this gently open I don’t want to break it and it will snap right back in pretty easily so your hair snap think just like that and I guess I can show you on this too as well now when i repent these I had two left over one is for the alternator and a one is for that goes to ignition believe this is twenty five is the one that goes to your alternator reason being is that you have a light a warning light for the alternator and I believe the 50 to check on the fifth and let you shore with the 50 is for oh it’s for ignition this is like another power I’m not sure exactly with us for like for a blower switch or something like that so you’re gonna have these two left over there Brown left over and 25 I know is for the alternator and since as a warning light that had a

light that was attached to it which represents a resistor which excites the alternator to charge so if we left this open by itself alternator will not charge what this does is send the resistance to the alternator basically tells it to charge as it’s running without this it would not charge and it’s kind of a terrible thing to have because if your light bulb burns out so to speak you’ll never know it that your alternator is bad so with that being said we’re gonna clip I’m gonna figure out actually I’m gonna put a resistor on here so it will turn the alternator to charge and for this 50 here I believe I’m gonna cut this off and I’m missing one ground that belongs to my V spacings here how’s it look at the schematic to be sure but I’m missing one one ground was just black one of these guys either I can tie off one of these guys here or I can tie off two to the body of the truck but I think I’ll do is I’ll tie off to one of these guys here and stick and the proper arrangement for the ground so I think that’s it hopefully that gives you an idea hopefully I explained it well enough sometimes I mumble so okay so the next time I’ll talked about the wiring that was here before there was a two brown wires one was a 25 number 25 on the schematic the other one was a 50 the 25 was for the for the alternator all kind of light and the 50 was a just a coming from ignition so I ended up putting the 50 in its place 50 was belonged and I put the 50 over here I was missing a 50 so I put that in and then for the alternator what I decided to do you know some people they get a kit to have the resistor to the kid why I end up doing is putting the light bulb back in and I end up adding two wires to the light bulb because the light bulb it’s gonna act as my resistor so that’s you got to have a resistant or for the alternator to work and just to make a correction this is not a light this is actually a sensor that goes for the cruise control I made that mistake before so I made a couple mistakes out there correct for you later on the other video but just what I decided to do and probably gonna install this light – there’s like these two sections for a choke and I think is for four-wheel-drive that this car doesn’t have of course it has a choke but doesn’t have the four-wheel-drive so I’m gonna plug this light in as a substitute so that way you turn it on ignition you’re gonna see the light and should you turn the ignition over and the car runs the light should go off so I’m still gonna use this light for that but you okay I installed the – and might work sorry for that guys just give example I mean I put in the sensors I’ll show you what the sensors are for these guys I put in the oil sending unit inside of the engine of course and then the other thing I put in was a new sending unit for the temperature gauge I could turn this like Amazon for good bright LEDs one on the left here it’s for the fasten seatbelts and well and right is for the brake this right here if you can see it here a slight install it’s kind of hard to see but it’s a battery light so when you turn that’s what I was talking about earlier you need to have the ball in

order to excite the generator so what should happen is that you need to turn it over that bulb should go out it only should come on if the car is running you only should come on if something’s wrong with the alternators let’s see we should go out let’s see good so I’ll keep you guys up to date one of the for the food temperature if you can see it there this is green green wire here you’re gonna have to switch that sensor out right now basically that’s just a switch if you have the ones with the idiot lights you have to drain when you call it out of your radiator and then take the plug off usually that’s where it is for most of these most of these engines on a 305 and for the oil pressure sending unit you have to get take this off and it’s right next to the distributor this should be a another pressure switch for the oil and it kind of looks like like this it’s exactly like this and it sticks in this way you can see these terminals are bent for me pulling them out but it looks just like this you want to pull this out and put sending unit power pressure sending unit and then for the cooler one this is a look for the cooler one this is just another pressure switch I mean looks like a temperature one but I didn’t want to take any chances so got a new sensor and replaced it and the gauge gauges should work fine with those modifications so I figure I just give you a heads up and that’s it just a little side note here when you take off the o2 oil pressure switch you’re gonna see the plug and you’re gonna see two problems here be plugged into the plug will have three wires what’s the strength I know the one is the red or orange and be 12-volt the middle one is black which goes to your warning light and then the green is for the choke you know what is happening is when you add power before you turn the car this red applies power what’s going through here and these two are tied together PI’s power to here of course can have power in this you can see your idiot light before you turn the car and then it’s gonna give power to the choke so it can advance or choke can close off the carburetor or operate if you will before you start the car so that’s like in the the closed position but once the car starts and this begins to see pressure it already has power to the chokes it doesn’t matter so once they start seeing pressure it will open like a circuit and then the light will go out and then choke doesn’t need any power anymore and then the car will run just a little side note I know this is kind of confusing again this is power these two are tied together because there’s only two prongs here goes right to the choke so before you turn the car power comes in it’s these two I’m gonna see your light on you’re gonna see it’s gonna hit the choke choke it’s going to advance and do its thing and then as soon as you turn the car over pressure it’s in here for so we’ll go up open up the circuit turn off the light and you’re done so when you get in there I know this is really tight area because it’s right next to the distributor just to give you a heads up I didn’t explain it earlier but there it is the circuit to you I can tell you what I did end up doing is and I’m cutting the wires straight off had these three wires exposed tied the green wire let’s go see the choke to the positive 12 volt only problem with that is that you have constant power on your choke if it wasn’t for the fact that I’m gonna be changing out the

carburetor anyway get different carb that would be a problem because then you’ll have power to choke constantly it doesn’t need to be that way even though your choke is operated with power and also temperature but it doesn’t need to have power constantly to it either so when I cut these wires again I say put these two together just operate the choke and then I left the black wire which is going to the instrument light or the warning light that became my wire to my gauge my new gauge or whatever games you’re gonna use because I replace this guy here with the sending unit sending unit looks totally different sending unit looks more like a box with one tab coming out of it and then it gets screwed in in here that’s where it gets the pressure in here and then sends it out to the to the gauge so I tied the black wire and to this guy here so that way he goes out to my gauge this is not going to work with a gauge it’s just a switch is open and closed so I figure I just tell you guys what I did you