Aerotech Trailer Skirt Install

the first thing you have to do in setting up to do the skirt is established the forward-most position of the tandem slide assembly it’s usually easy to see with some kind of a stopper bar this one goes all the way across other ones have just a short peg you establish the point on the tandem assembly which is the most forward position in a lot of cases that will be the i-beam that is the closest to the stop which when musician it right here if this tandem was all the way forward in this case this IV right next to the stop will give sufficient clearance with the team concern the most forward position so now that we’ve established the very first I beam that’s clear of the tandem wheels when they’re all the way forward this is your start point now that we’ve established this is our starting point we found that instead of doing a chalk line to establish the line for all of the stanchions we’ve used this bungee cord and a string with a hook we’re gonna hook this buck right here at the outboard most part of the trailer and then move forward with this string to the forward most point I’m going to take the other end of this string line and hook it up forward next to the landing gear but we have to be careful that we don’t touch this bracket assembly the gusset for the landing gear right here as as close as I can get so that the panel will clear this gusset as it comes forward now you can see this red line is perfectly straight going from the rear most point to the front most point clearing the gussets to the landing gear it also keeps the skirt inboard enough that you don’t have to play around with the wiring on the turning light midpoint on the trailer another way that you can install this trailer which is slightly more efficient from an aerodynamic standpoint is to set every stanchion screen a half inches and board of the outside of the trailer and run down line this allows you to still clear the turning light and then the very last extension you put on the outboard and edge of the trailer creating a little bit of a kicker so to speak to divert the air cleanly around the tandem by doing so though once you establish the first set of actions the last four you’ll have to start turning to come in port to catch up on the inside of the landing gear gusset it’s on the diagram included in your instruction page alright now we’ve established where these stanchions are going to go every trailer is going to get 13 of these stanchions per side for a total of 26 per trailer this stanchion hardware includes a table which will go through here encounter a pose on the i-beam you’ll have a reinforcement bracket which goes on to reinforce the full assembly where it cinches on to the bottom of the beam you’ll also have a washer and a nylon lock nut to assemble this you’re going to need any hammer and a cordless driver with a deep well 1/2 inch socket alright as you saw earlier we lay down all three about all thirteen stanchions so they’re ready to go now it’s just a matter of finding that straight and it’s lined with a hammer without any fasteners in place you see it’s pretty easy to do we’re going to continue this way right down the line and we’ll come back and add the fasteners now that we have all of these stanchions on you’ll notice that we’re using every other eye beef so they’re on two foot centers if you find a trailer configuration that is not on two foot

centers such as paper haulers who use nine foot centers for their eye beams you should use whatever you need to get within two feet if it’s a little bit more a little bit less it really doesn’t matter these all work together once the substrate is installed sometimes you’ll find that when you’ve reached the main landing gear post it doesn’t come out exactly even like this trailer does at that point it doesn’t matter if you put an additional you’re just gonna have an additional an additional table and additional fasteners which are included with every kit so you just start in the back first work your way forward doing every other i-beam every two feet in 95 percent of the trailers whether it’s an aluminum i-beam or a steel i-beam the aluminum I beams are a little bit thicker but you just have to have these on and they will go over any I mean we’ve yet to find a manufacturer these will not work on now we have all the stanchions on in in their location and we’ve hammered them all on as you can see they hold their position quite well now as you’re going to take the J bolt and put it through on the opposite side of the hook you’re going to take this piece and put it over there you’re gonna take your washer and your nylon locknut we found it’s easier to do all of this assembly on all of the stanchions and come back and tighten them with a creeper all at the same time I’m using an impact driver to sense these in place it helps to have a swivel but it’s not necessary and what you’ll find is when you’re using an impact driver and you tighten this up which I’m going to do in a minute keep your finger or your hand on the J bolt on the backside assuring that it’s on that i-beam so it doesn’t spin and catch your finger and as you start to tighten this up you’re going to notice that this 12-gauge galvanized steel reinforcement bracket will actually start to squeeze in and almost distort a little bit you’ll know it’s tight enough went on the backside of the table you’ll start to actually feel that table start to try and straighten as you pull it watch how I do this first one that is very very solid and it’s designed for the bottom part of the skirt to Bend if you hit an obstruction here is the next bend point that lets you give plenty of clearance and it will still find its way back down straight but this part is totally protected with the plate and the hook and the table what we’re doing right now is assembling all of the brackets and fasteners but we’re not painting because it’s much faster working with your hands so just loose assemble everything first these naturally have enough of a pitch in the molded plastic that they’ll stay in place while you’re doing all of this assembly now everything is all loose assembled all the fasteners are in place now it’s just a matter of running down the line and tightening everything up we found that it’s easy to stage three sheets up against the tandems on both sides before you start assembling these

but then you take the driver with five sixteenths sub temp and sheet metal screw it’s only to hold the panel in place while you’re securing the permanent fasteners as we go ahead with the first one up it’s important that you overlap in this scan just a little bit and you’ll see on the other side its overlap the equal amount on the other stage that’s really all you need to hold this in place while all the other fasteners are attached but we’re going to go ahead and put on all three right now it’s important to make sure this is why we started the back of the trailer going that we have town is the last panel were overlapping the front stanchion there’s going just passed at a limit that and we’re going to secure this now in place if you’ll notice there’s a pretty large overlap right here and what that is for is it allows us to send the same size sheet for every trailer and some people that never let their tandem Assemblies all the way forward that are trying to maximize the savings are using these sheets and actually having a little bit longer skirt that’s why you have the 13 extension for each side is it will accommodate this thing at even longer position most trailers though you’ll find the forward most position of the trailer tandem assembly and the landing gear allows for 23 feet this right here is 24 combined so the little bit of overlap here really isn’t gonna affect its performance it’s just going to overlap double the fasteners here in the event that you have a large overlap where there is no stanchion we recommend putting the same three fasteners just to secure those two panels together at their intersection all right all of the stanchions are now secured permanently all of the panels are now among temporarily right where they belong so everything’s nice and straight these stanchions are almost three inches wide and it’s important to have a uniform look on the outside for your fasteners so what you’ll see is that you’ve got a back section right here to shoot for the center of the box to drill the first hole the next position you’ll see two little dots right here and two little dots right here that’s your target to be able to drill your middle hole and the bottom you’ll see that this panel is longer than the stanchion we did that intentionally so that this part will Bend first with all of your ground contact and rather than making a separate boot which tears and needs additional fasteners it was just easier to incorporate it into the total seat and leave it in a place where it can bend because it’s not supported for the bottom few inches the next thing we’re going to do is Danny has these carriage bolts right here he’s on the other side and he’s pushing these through and then what we’re using is a fender washer a lock nut and a regular nut people asked why we don’t use nylon lock nuts and there’s a reason for that the carriage bolt actually has a square section under the head and what that does is bite into the plastic round hole and keep them from turning so that we can properly secure these and we’re using the 7/16 deep well socket and a cordless driver again and all types until it flips you get faster at it if you can actually put the washer in the lock washer together and put them on in one motion and follow it with the nut washer lock washer and nut just come back I’m going to go ahead and do a couple see where we are right here is a seam go

together so we put the toe fastener down on the bottom X here so that if they do make ground contact they’re not sloppy down here the two sheets have been connected together down at the ground contact point a little bit of pressure on either side of where the hole is going to be so that when he drills it the holes aren’t offset from the panel and the standard now what I’m doing this is the back panel the middle panel in the front panel when you overlap the panels it’s important to remember on that outside right here is where they’re overlapping and you can see that it’s honest and it’s a good idea to put an extra fastener down here along the bottom edge so when it makes ground contact they’re still well connected down here you’ll see the next overlap right here you can see a slight shadow it isn’t quite on the stanchion I usually use four or five inches as a rule of thumb you’re going to want to put an extra set of fasteners on this seam right here which is on the outside visually so we’re gonna follow the same place one pole here and another hole here and then obviously on the bottom you’re actually attaching three to every fastener but you do have to look around to make sure that on the bottom edge where there’s a seam you reinforce it with a fastener or where there’s a large unsupported overlap between stanchions you put some additional fasteners and they are all included in the kit the reason for that is that we needed to make enough material and enough fasteners that every trailer manufacturer with their variations and dimensions our skirt is universal and can accommodate all of them run the last stanchion now underneath the landing gear the gussets start back in here and are on the outside of this panel where as close to them as we can be but we don’t have to attach to the gussets themselves these stanchions here are more than adequate to hold on to this outside panel without attaching to any other structures on the trailer the reason that I told you earlier that you needed a universal joint is sometimes the gearbox for the landing gear is right in front of here this trailer happens to have gear bags on the outside of the gusset but sometimes finagling around in here doing different things especially attaching the stanchions is where that universal joint comes in handy I’m going to go ahead and just screw on the last

stanchion so convenient because if you peek your fasteners you’re using and separate them in a bin so that you’re not trying to reach for everyone randomly this makes it real easy for me to grab both Watchers together put them on with the nut it really does speed things along especially if you’re doing multiple trailers now we’re doing the most important part in the final step of your install we send two stickers like this with every skirt we ask that you put them on right here so when you’re in that truck stop someone asks you where you got that really good-looking skirt you can point them right here thanks for watching you