Jadus Yamaha SR250 Tank Levelling Kit

this here is the Jada’s tank leveling kit and I’ve developed this to level out the the SR 250s tank which sits on sort of a rearward slant which suits its original chopper risk styling but if you’re if you’re modifying your bike into more of a cafe racer or a tracker or a brat style bike you’re going to want to level that that tank out so that you have a more harmonious line with the with your custom so you can see here I’ve got some aluminium CNC machined brackets with the corresponding fastenings to attach door to your bike and included in the kit as these template stickers that I’ve made which makes it really easy to install there’s no sort of measuring or guessing where things should be just put those stickers on the frame and it tells you where to drill the holes to install it all so let’s get on with installing this yeah so as mentioned we’re going to be installing the Jada’s tank leveling kit on this buy today you can see quite clearly here how the level of the frame rails here and the bottom of the seat does not quite line up at the bottom of the tank now it’s not a lot but it really bothers me and I’m sure it bothers some other people too it’s nice to have a clean harmonious line that’s really like the cafe racer or tracker look and that sort of helps out a lot with that the overall care into the bike just a quick update on the project bike here itself you can see you’ve added some new tank badges I have we’ve got that seat installed we’ve got the frame loop installed and a tail light brake it installed and I have put some many indicators in a new tail light on as well of course so things are starting to take shape here but in this video we’re going to do the tank leveling kit so I’ll show you how to do that now first things first you need to remove the seat and the tank and any other fuel will and vacuum lines and you’re going to end up with a pretty naked looking yes a 250 frame and this is what we’re going to be working with here we’re going to be focusing mainly in this area here so let’s get stuck in right-oh ignoring my extra wires here these are leads down to some temperature sensors I’ve got installed I’ve been testing some some cooling parts so ignore those those won’t be on your bike take off the tank mount dampers we’re going to reuse these later with the kit so hang on to those set them aside now we’re going to pull out the plug lead to the CDI box here set that aside and then we are going to undo the two bolts that hold in the CDI box because we’re going to remove the box so we don’t damage it when we do the installation cool now we’ll set that one aside now we’re going to remove the stock tank mounts and these are held in place with three spot welds so we’re going to need to drill those out these you can sort of locate that there’s sort of a flattened area around the flange here I’ll put up a photo marking out what it should look like we’re going to put a seam to punch in each of those three spot welds and then we’re going to drill them out I’ll show you that now so once you’ve located the three spot-welds they should be slightly indented areas around the circumference here so once you’ve located them put a seam to punch right in the middle of it on each of them here’s my three here right and that’s going to give us a good locator for the drilling process okay so the plan here for the drilling process is not to drill right through all we want to do is drill deep enough to drill out the spot weld which is only as deep as the thickness of the metal so when I drill I’m going to drill only with the tip of the drill bit I’m going to start with a six point five millimeter drill bit and we’re only going to go in a metal or a mill and a half or so so we’ll do that to all three that’s done now I’m going to do the same thing but with an eight mil drill bit just using the tip only so I’ll do that to all three again and we’re just widening the hole slightly and deepening it ever so

slightly now we’ve done that we’re going to do the same thing but this time with a ten mil drill bit and this is the final one so we’re really going to try and drill as deep as the entire thickness of the flange here and then a little bit into the base material here so we’ll do that now I should widen out the hole enough to remove the majority of the spot-weld once you think you’ve drilled through far enough we’re going to start trying to remove the entire mount itself now you can do this with a big flat blade screwdriver and a hammer or even better I have this metal drift maybe you have something similar but it’s just to get and behind the flange and start trying to bang it out and once it starts to come you can then grab grab it with the good old poly grips and pull it off if it doesn’t come you can always drill a little deeper and then try again so I’m going to try here there’s a good chance I’ll have to drill deeper instead see it started to come there here goes tore the welds and there’s the third one they’re just hanging on so grab the poly grips try and twist that off and there it is and we’re going to leave those two locating pins there because that’s what we’re going to use to put our template sticker on so we’ll do that next before we go to the next step we can actually clean this up a little bit use a wire brush remove some of the surface rust or even file to get rid of any sort of burrs that are hanging on from that when we drilled some tighter that up a little bit now once you’ve cleaned that up a little bit we can put our template sticker on now I’ve filed off the paint on the very top of these two locating pins here that Yamaha have used to locate the tank mount when they’ve well written place I’ve done that just to highlight that these are the two locations and the center hole here that we’re going to use to place the sticker another sticker and there’s a right side and a left side and that’s based on if you imagine yourself sitting on the bike so the right side is on your right hand side when you’re sitting facing forward and left as the left side when you’re sitting facing forward and if you’re in doubt the new hole should be down and forward rather than down and back so I’m going to put this in place now so you can see the big hole should line up with the big hole here in the center and these two small circles here should line up right in the middle of those locating pins if I do this right there I’ll give you a zoomin shot of that now okay so here’s our drill template stick it in place and you can see the big circle is lined up right in the middle of the hole on the frame and the two smaller circles are lined up on top of those two locating lugs I’ve got this as close as I can but that’s about as close as you need to be and then you can see there we are going to drill the new hole so now we’ve got that in position we’re going to mark a Center for drilling here with a center punch you can do that with one that you hit with a hammer or one of these handy spring-loaded ones I’ll do that now and do that right in the middle of the cross here in the middle of the circle that we’ve got on the some template you probably have your own knack to drilling holes in middle but for me I like to drill a small pilot hole first just gives me a slightly more accurate Center so I’m going to drill this hole first with the four mil drill bit you can see I’ve actually marked on the template 6.5 mm drill and that’s our final dyma hole that we’re going to drill now my pilot holes drilled I’m going to drill up the hole to 6.5 mil which is our final diameter now our final hole was drilled and remove the template sticker and try and clean up this hole a little bit of any burrs on the outside and the inside you can do that with a file or something now our holes all tidied up we’re going to do everything that we did to this side of the frame to the other side of the frame I figure to do a quick recap while we’re looking at the left-hand side so I’ve felt around the flange and located three indentations where I’ve thought that the spot welds are I’ve punched a center punch I’ve drilled as deep as the tip with a six half mil drill bit then an 8 mil drill bit in a 10 mil drill bit and now I think I’ve removed as much as the spot welds as possible now I’m going to start

trying to bang the original mount off and and pull that away from the frame now we’ve got that cleaned up I’m going to put my drilling template sticker the left side in the left side of the frame line up one of these locating pins here with a small circle on the sticker hold that in place and then rotate the stick it down to line up with the center hole here on the frame and the other locating pin there to the right and put that in place and now we can see the crosshairs here for the centre where I’m going to start drilling okay now we’ve got both holes drilled on both sides of the frame and I just thought I’d show you that the beauty of using a template is that you end up with both locations drilled in exactly the same position on both sides of the frame so you can see they’re exactly parallel with each other now we’re going to install the new jatis tank mounts in my hand I have one of the new Ford tank mounts I have an m6 bolt which is the shorter of the two bolts included in the kit and I have an m6 nylock nut now I’m going to try and put these on this can be a little bit tricky but if you have patience should go right this is just finding the hole here with the bolt head on the inside of the frame and the thread sticking out tank mount on and then if you can try and get the nut started like there then we can go and get some tools and tighten it up now we’ve got that in place and the nuts started we’re going to feed a Elam Drive from the other side of the frame we have the luxury of here on the side of the frame and we’re going to do up the nut and it’s a nylock nut so it’s not going to go anywhere but do it up side enough that really get a good bite into it here we go and we’ll do that to the other side now this side of the frame is a little bit trickier because we’re a little bit more confined for space with the igniter coil here and it’s also a little bit more difficult to access some the bolt head when we go to tighten things up I’ll show you that in a second just get these started back in place there so we have that resting in place now we’re just got to tighten it up and as I said it’s a little bit more difficult to access the bolts head on the inside of the frame here so I’m going to use a short allen key and I’m going to have to come in from behind and try and find the kid and then do it up like that now it’s time to reinstall the CDI box and that’s when we’re going to use these longer m6 bolts that are included in the kit and we’re also going to use the two spaces included in the kit and these are to clear the bolt head that’s now sitting inside of the frame so before this surface here mated right up to the inside of the inside surface of this metal here in the frame but now we have a bolt head here so we’re going to use these spaces to clear that there’s plenty of room there so it’s no big deal but what I would recommend is to use a tiny drop of super glue and glue these in place now this is just to make installation easier if you can do it without it that’s fine but it gets quite tricky once you put things in side there so just to drop a glue and the glues just to hold them in place it’s not load-bearing or anything so I’m going to set that up now getting the box back inside the frame can be a bit tricky but with the right orientation the right rotation it should go in and now it’s at this point that I’m going to add a dab of glue to the outside of this here tiny bit making sure I don’t get any in the threads because it’s going to mess things up when I try and screw the bolt in and I’ll put that so it’s lined up over the threads and not disturbing any of the threads so that when we screw through here we miss the hole that’s in place I could let that dry a little bit but I’ll try and move on to the next one

now I rotate that around and here and then I can get the other one add a drop of glue there add the final spacer like that for holds I’m going to rotate this back around once you’ve got it into its original and correct location position I’m going to try and hold it in place with one hand and start the thread with the bolt and the other hand and if the space is in the right location and you haven’t got any glue and the threads it should start here we get that one and then I do the other one sets in place and start that one and I can go and get my allen wrench and tighten those up crank that up a little bit don’t need to be super tight tight enough to hold it in place but we don’t want to pull that thread insert out of the plastic of the box either there we go there in place now we’re going to plug the box back in make sure you’ve got the plug in the right orientation so it lines up with the Pens in the box P letter out should go in easy enough of the bit of a push here we have it great now we’re actually done for these forward tank mounts and this part of the installation so we can put these rubber dampers back on the new Jadis mounts they fit like the original ones there is a couple more things that we may have to do to the frame in order for the tank to sit properly but in the best case you won’t have to do this I’ll come back to this after we’ve done the rear tank mount we’re going to do that now so installation of the rear tank lifter is about as easy as it gets just remove the rubber damper and then with the lifter bracket here you can see that there’s a machined chamfer on one side of the bracket now this is designed to clear the welds on the frame here because they’re quite fat and chunky so quite simply the shampoo faces down to clear those welds and it’s quite a neat fit that sits there lifts the rear of the tank five mil as we’ve lowered the front and then we put our rubber damper back on the Abbott okay installation is almost complete now there’s two things I mentioned earlier that we might have to do in some cases as one of them would be to remove some of the metal on the flange here which just sticks out and this is a stamped part and it’s based on the edge here to get a little bit of strength we may have to remove some of that if we have interference with the tank and the other thing is on the other side is actually the purge for the indicator flasher and I don’t have any problems with mine because I’ve installed LED indicators and I’ve installed this little special flasher unit here from it’s a em flasher em unit from motor gadget in Germany which I highly recommend that is great but if you have the original flasher relay which is this bigger thing here hanging on that hook it can sometimes in some cases interfere with the tank when you put it on and if that’s the case you can bend it slightly inwards and then it will be out of the way and you’ll have some clearance there but we’re going to put the tank on and see if we have any issue is there now we’re going to ease the tank back in place just in the same way we would as if it was sitting on the original mounts drop that down and then try and edge it forward so it’s all the way home and then make sure it lines up with the one at the rear here and sits down properly here we go so now we’ve got the tank on we want to check to see if there’s any interference with any of the positions on the frame so that there’s any rubbing or contact between the tank and the frame and we do that by rocking the tank back and forth and so I decide them up and down and in this case I don’t have an interfere interference so I’m happy with this but if you notice

any chafing or rubbing or any strange noises you’re going to want to check to see where it’s coming from and sort that out so it’s either removing some material from this flange on the inside here that I showed before or bending down that indicator real a flashy unit tab because if there’s any interference the vibrations that the engine creates are going to get transferred through the frame and to the tank and the tank doesn’t like the vibrations it’s going to end up with splits in some places and that’s why Yamaha has mounted the tank with rubber dampers so we want to make sure that it’s still very much rubber mounted the final step for this installation is to bolt down the rear of the so you take the original or stock bracket put that in place and the stock bulb it should be enough length in the bulb to get to the threads and screw that down and talk it in place with a ratchet so we successfully installed the genes– tank leveling kit and you can see the effect that’s had on the bike you can see this line running with the frame rail here in the underneath of the seat continues now at the bottom of the tank so we’ve got a really nice harmonious flat line of the bike and it sort of runs level with the ground as well I hope you found installation easy enough if you have any questions about it feel free to email or post a comment in the video alternatively I can send you I’ve made a PDF set of instructions if you would like some clearer pictures or if you need any further information this bike now has the three components and stored on it that make up the j2 styling kit that being the you could see here the frame loop kit and the tank leveling kit and you can sort of see the drastic impact its had on the style of the bike so at the end of this video I’m going to leave you with some before-and-afters both comparing the tank leveling kit to know tank leveling kit and comparing the styling kit to the original look of the bike and I think you’re going to see the huge impact that it has had I hope you enjoyed the video and kept your reaching and happy writing Cheers you