Hypro 5330 Piston Pump Service Video

hi i’m chris from the hyper service department today i’ll be showing you the disassembly and reassembly of a 5330 c – h RX twin piston pump some of the tools required to work on these would be a 9/16 socket flat blade screwdriver a 3/16 allen a long bolt a claw hammer and it’s also helpful to have a one zero five five zero zero zero five roller for putting the packings in though it’s not absolutely necessary you can still prepare without it and we’ve got some specialty tools listed in your owners manual that are helpful but if you don’t have access to them it’s still possible to work on it without those let’s get started the 5300 series is available with a variety of seal materials and performance to suit your application needs it’s also available with the hollow shaft or a solid shaft and there’s an identification stamped on the end of each of these pump shafts so you can call our tech support line if you need to identify your pump model if the pump is leaking you’ll have a visual indicator from this area back here and if there if there is fluid leaking back here you’ll need to disassemble the pump and repair it with new seals the first thing we’ll do is remove the heads by taking out the 9/16 bolts to remove the cup which is underneath this cup spreader you want to turn the key way of the shaft facing straight up reason being is that when you take out the center bolt this connecting rod is going to turn in there and if the qat is up then it won’t cheer off that grease fitting if you do break it off you can just drill it out under the center bolt is a small seal washer you want to replace that remove the cup spreader I gently prying it out with a screwdriver being careful not to damage it there’s an o-ring seal inside of that and this is your cup if this cup is worn or melted or has deep vertical grooves in it that would cause a leak in this area also if you’ve got vertical scratches or pitting inside of this sleeve that would also cause a leak I’ll show you a better look at that in a minute here this bottom part under the cup can be taken out with a screwdriver you want to try to get it out from the center and being careful not to scratch the inside of this sleeve under that there’s another oring seal ring and there’s a guide down in the bottom go and inspect all of those parts for wear or damage next thing we can flip it over and take apart the other side before you take apart the other side make sure you remember to turn that key way back straight up so you don’t break this fitting off both the top and bottom are the same as far as the seals and the part stack notice that the valves are actually opposite from the other side we’ll get into that a little later if you have some difficulty getting this piece out you can pull this grease fitting out take this retaining ring off in front of the bearing push the whole bearing and shaft assembly out first and then you’ll have better access to be able to get in there and get that out it is possible to replace the seal kit without removing the shaft but if you have a hard time getting that out that’s

one way that you can do it another thing you can do to get this out once the other side is out you can actually turn the crankshaft backed in the down position and you’ve got a little bit of room underneath to be able to get in there and loosen it up you just want to be very careful not to damage that graphite guide that sits down in there now we can remove the shaft and remove the sleeves the grease fitting is a press fit into the cam bearing so to remove that take your claw hammer just pull that straight out you probably want to replace that when we reassemble it and then on the other side is this retaining ring you want to get behind this with a screwdriver being careful not to damage this bearing and you can twist that right out now we can go to the press and push out the shaft and bearings when removing the shaft assembly make sure that whatever you’re pushing it out with is small enough to fit through the hole of that connecting rod this is a good time to inspect the cam bearing for any damage if the pump had been run while leaking for long enough the chemical can actually get in to the cam bearing and watch the grease out of it if I came bearing a shop you’ll need to replace the shaft and cam bearing assembly as one also check your main bearings and check that they don’t feel lumpy and that they turn nice and smooth from here you can pull out that connecting rod and inspect these flat areas for anywhere that would be enough to feel with your thumbnail and replaces necessary next we can actually push out the sleeves to do that you’ll want to have something that will fit on top of that sleeve but also be able to slip through that bore in the body there’s a special tool for that listed in the owner’s manual if needed press that out and inspect the inside of this sleeve for any deep enough scratches to feel with your fingernail or any pitting if the pump is set with chemical in it for a long period of time you may get pitting inside of this sleeve and that will cause a leak even with a new seal check this overhang this is also in the repair kit and make sure that this brass ring is in good condition we’ll push out the other sleeve inspect that sleeve for any vertical scratches or pitting and replace as necessary next let’s talk about the belt if you’ve noticed a lot some pressure it may be that your valves are starting to wear or if there’s an obstruction in one of the valves that will also give you a loss of pressure if you have broken valve springs that will do it if the poppets in here are stuck to the seats just from the chemical being pumped that’ll also give you a loss of pressure one thing you can do is blow compressed air into the inlet port and sometimes that can free up a stuck poppet if you do need to remove the valves these are some of those special tools that we talked about listed in the owner’s manual if you don’t have access

to this stuff you can remove the parts with a needlenose and a screwdriver carefully you want to make note of the orientation of the valves on the inlet port that valve will have the cage facing up all four are the same on the outlet port you’ll have the seat facing up and then on the opposite end of the pump you’ve got two inlet port cage facing up yeah that port with the seat facing up you want to make sure to put them back in in that orientation to removed this valve pull that straight out inspect it for a broken spring or any obstructions and on this side use this tool pull that out and inspect this valve as well same goes for the other side you can pop the valve itself apart to clean out any obstructions and also to inspect the seat for anywhere or pitting inspect the poppet as well for any wear and replaces necessary just you want to check out all four of them if the valve comes apart inside you can take it out piece by piece this is a good time to inspect the condition of the inside of the valve or you can run a wire brush through there to be able to see any chemical etching easier also inspect this area on top of this surface right here for chemical where if there’s enough wear inside of this valve bore the valve can actually move up and down while the pump is running which will give you your attic pressure and start to wear the body out to a point where you can’t use it anymore now we can go over the reassembly the first thing we’ll do is install a new set of Valve’s available in a repair kit and if you’re reusing the old valves if they look good basically just put that o-ring on and then make sure this poppet faces this way so that step will fit into this spring make sure that’s as straight as you can get it and then snap it back together and then you’ll want to put a little bit of oil around the outside of that o-ring and then remove and then remember that orientation so on the outlet port that valve will face with the seat up on the inlet side that valve will have the cage facing up flip the pump over put some oil on your o-rings Inlet port cage faces up outlet port seat faces up and we can go back to the press and reinstall this shaft and bearing assembly to reinstall the shaft put it into the pump body with the cam bearing facing down you want to have something to support this bearing make sure this is as straight as possible and don’t force it or you can bend these C clips up if you do happen to bend those you’ll want to replace them press that straight down until it bottoms out and then reinstall this retaining ring like so and now we can put the sleeves back in in the packings so these are the parts that are included in the repair kit and one kit will

repair the complete pump usually what I’ll do is build up the part stack ahead of time and then you can just drop them right into the pump the first thing you’ll do is put some oil or grease inside of that sleeve drag your guide down in all the way next the seal ring you want to be careful not to crease this put a little oil on it and kind of work it in at an angle and then use that roller to bottom it out and take this larger o-ring a little oil on that and that will actually fit down inside of that steel ring so take the ruler and push it down into it drop this in facing this way and then the small hole ring goes around the cup spreader put a little oil on that you can snap that into the cup and then push that into the sleeve and then your Center bolt and that a new ceiling washer same goes for the second one some grease in it Gaiden first seal ring it some oil on that bottom that out with roller take the larger o-ring put some oil on that bottom that out with the roller drop this in make sure everything’s seated nice and straight take the smaller o ring put that on the cup spreader it’s more oil on that put that under the cup dead into the sleeve center bolt seal washer and leave these parts aside for now we can go ahead and put these into the palm before you can put your part stack in you want to re-install the connecting rod it helps to put a little grease on the surfaces of that and then you notice this cam bearing you’ll have to kind of turn it and work it in and then you’ll want to have that key way facing straight up again try to Center this connecting around as best you can make that part stack that we put together and drop that down in making sure that the guide that’s on the bottom isn’t hung up on this connecting rod and then it fit down flush and then you want to torque that Center bolt to one hundred and thirty inch pounds here’s where you put that other o-ring from the kit down inside here helps to put a little oil on it as well and then that brass ring this can go on either way snap down in you can put that that side that you can put the head on for that side it’s a good idea to tighten down those bolts in a crisscross pattern to make sure you’re drawing down the head evenly we’ll flip over the pump you want to turn that shaft again so that keyway is facing straight up like our other part

stack carefully drop that in making sure that it goes down all the way and that guides fitting over top of the connector out torque that center bolt to 130 inch pounds reinstall that skinny o-ring and the final brass ring make sure that the o-rings on the heads are in good condition tighten that back down and then the last thing to do would be to reinstall the new grease fitting and to do that basically I’ll just want to line that up into the cam bearing and tap it in with a hammer gently until you feel it bottomed out and then to straighten this out while the pump is running you can take a screwdriver put it in in this notch and gently touch the grease fitting while it’s spinning and until it’s straightened out and true you want to grease this cam bearing every 50 hours of operation or once a month and you want to be very careful not to over grease it because it can actually blow out the inner seal that’s inside of the cam bearing and if you have excessive grease in this cavity it’ll build up heat so be very careful with that that’s all there is to it