How to Install Performance Supercharger Pulley Mod MINI Cooper 2002-2005 R53

hi everybody today I’m working on a 2004 mini cooper s i’ll be installing a supercharger pulley I already made a supercharger pulley video I thought I’d make a new and improved updated version where I point on things that I didn’t catch in the first video if you’d like to watch the original video you can find a link to it in the description below the video I’ll be installing a way motor work 17% pulley they come in various sizes 15 16 17 for typical street use I would guess I would recommend a 15 or 16 percent the 17 percent will give you more power but the air intake will be a lot hotter and you’ll get more heat soak at the low end so it’s a bit of a trade-off this is a nice two-piece pulley after we pull the old pulley off of the car we’ll just slide this one onto the supercharger shaft and then bolts go through the front here and pull the two halves together and as we do that this Center spline squeezes down on the shaft to hold the pulley in place the way motor works kit also comes with the correctly sized accessory belt I recommend the 0 6 0 5 3 2 belt for the 17 percent pulley for the 15 and the 16 the correct size is a 0 6 0 5 3 5 be careful of the numbers that you may see on the Ulta website they show a 0 6 0 5 3 9 belt as the correct size for the larger pulleys and a 5 3 5 I believe for the 17 percent pulley and that’s just a little bit too long and you could get some belt slip I’ll also be replacing the belt tensioner we need to remove this anyway to do the job so it’s a good idea to replace it especially if your car has higher mileage and a set of cooler running plugs when you increase the compression inside the cylinder it’s a good idea to use a little bit cooler plugs the supercharger pulley lives on the front of the supercharger itself let’s go down here it’s a little bit hard to see but the way we do this job is I’ll put a jack under the motor I’ll disconnect the lower and the upper motor mounts lift up the engine a little bit and then we’ll use a clam shell type pulley extractor tool especially designed for the stock mini supercharger pulley we’ll slip it over the top of the pulley and then pull it straight off here’s a spare supercharger I have off the car which still has a stock on it I’ve heard feedback from people who’ve attempted to use a tool like this and that they end up bending the pulley but they don’t have enough tension to get the pulley to slide off as you tighten it down it’s going to tend to push in and that’s going to possibly damage the snout here so my recommendation is to invest in the correct pulley puller tool and then you can always sell it after you’re done using it all right so we’ll go ahead and get started and this job is fairly straightforward we don’t need to remove the bumper but we will need to remove the left wheel and remove the wheel liner first thing I’ll do is get under the car and remove the skid plate so I’ll need a 10 millimeter bolt a Philips head screwdriver and also a 13 millimeter so I can disconnect the lower engine mount and the power steering fan and then there’s a couple of half-twist Philips head screws on the back side here just twist these and it pulls right out alright next we’ll remove the power steering fan if you have trouble disconnecting the electrical connector you can let it hang off to the side if you’re careful and gentle I’m going to go ahead and disconnect it alright next we’ll remove these a engine mount bracket bolts there’s four 13 millimeter bolts so that allows the engine to hang free and then later we’ll get a jack under here and lift it up alright next we’ll move this stuff out of the way so I’ll disconnect the hoses from the fuel vapor recirculation valve just squeeze and pull get those out of the way next I’ll grab my belt remover tool I’ll put a link in the description where you can buy one of these it’s a special tool and you’re going to need it to get the belt off without damaging anything it uses the upper bolt here as the fulcrum point and then there’s a couple little holes here which align with two holes in the arm so you put them in there and then pull and that will compress the spring right here as you compress the spring you’re going to insert the pin through a hole in this little metal what is this thing called the hole is down in there pretty far down what I like to do is use like a hex key and then I’ll put it on a vise grip and then kind of push it down in there play with the angles until you get it lined up so that it’ll go in the hole it’s pretty hard to see and do at the same time so I’ll put the tool in place it over the bolt on the top here make

sure the pins are lined up then I just pull back hard and as I’m pulling I’m going to stick my pin through the second hole in the strip there we go now the belt is no longer being under tension next I’ll remove the right front wheel and then next I’ll remove the wheel liner too there’s four screws here is a metal screw up top here and then there’s one more metal screw up front right here and then the last one I’ll do is this one and I can actually peel the wheel liner back instead of completely removing it if you want to remove the whole wheel liner then you need to get another one here there’s another one here one up here and one underneath but it’s flexible enough that you can just kind of grab it and then just fold it back out of the way like this there we go okay now we can see the belt and what I do is just put my finger in here on the idler pulley pull it forward and the belt will come off alright next I’ll support the engine from below so I can remove the top engine mount so I’ll get a big block of wood and I’ll try to support the engine in this general area right here I’ll just jack it up until I know it’s no longer resting on the engine mount next I’ll remove this top 18 millimeter bolt these two 13 Mills and there’s a bolt under here that’s going to fall out so make sure you capture it and I’ll remove this one as well just to get it out of the way next is for 16 millimeter bolts two in the front two in the back and then we’ll take this arm out so I’ll raise the engine up a little more now we can wiggle and pull this out in here so now we got a little bit better view of the pulley but we’re going to need to raise the engine up quite a bit more because I need to have a straight shot over the top of this crash tube as I raise the engine it’s going to put stress on this radiator hose so I’m going to disconnect this bolt here to give it some slack all right next step is to remove the tensioner theoretically you can replace the pulley without removing the tensioner but it’s a little bit higher risk operation if the clamshell starts to slip you may have to grind the pulley off I’ve actually had to do that on more than one occasion so what I like to do is use a chain vise grip like this one here and I’ll wrap this over the outside of the pulley like this and just squeeze it that’ll kind of clamp down and reduce any risk of slippage in order to use the chain vise grip the tensioner needs to come off it’s held on by two 60 millimeter bolts and two 10 millimeter bolts the ten millimeter bolts are here and the 16 millimeter bolts are here and here so I’ll crack this one first I’m going to raise the engine up to get these two top bolts then I’ll lower the engine again to get the two bottom bolts you can use a ratcheting wrench or a swivel extension then we pull this up on out of here if you have trouble getting to come out you can raise and lower the engine until the gap is appropriate when I raise it a little bit I think that’ll make it easier alright now we have almost a straight shot to the pulley over the top of the crash tube here so there’s a plastic dust cover here we’re going to kind of twist and push at the same time rotate it out of there throw this one away to prevent galling I’m going to put some grease on my thread because this is going to have a lot of tension and to protect the tool you’re going to want to grab that thirteen millimeter bolt that came out when you took off the ground strap and thread it in to the center of the shaft here I’m going to back the bolt out until it’s flush I’ll set up my chain vise tool to be the correct size to slip over the

over the pulley tool and we’ll tap the clamshell over the pulley and then put my chain vise as tight as I can make it there we go okay I have a clean shot here so I’m going to put my 19 millimeter on here you can use a regular wrench but you’re going to wear yourself out this job is a lot easier with a good impact wrench so you’re going to want to put the bolt on here and turn clockwise be sure to inspect and make sure the tools not slipping as you tighten this down it’s going to take a lot of force it’ll flex a little bit but the last thing you want to do is cause the pulley to bend so much that the tool no longer will fit over it and that if that happens you’re gonna have to grind it off so we’re ready to go I’ve got my chain vise grip tightened as tight as it’ll go and I’ve got my impact gun in the clockwise position so you’re going to want to watch the gap here between the superchargers snout and the pulley and you can see that it’s starting to move away after the tool flexed a little bit so here comes if you do it right the tool will just barely clear the top of the crash tube here okay I’ve kind of run out of room to work so I’m going to back the bolt back out and pull the pulley tool off get the chain vise out of the way so if it doesn’t come off all the way you can tap it off the rest of the way just with a gentle taps of a hammer and there we go I’ll add this one to the pulley collection if you do find that you need to grind off the pulley which happens on rare occasions you’re going to want to keep a spray bottle handy with water because when it grinds and it gets hot you don’t want to melt the seal back here there’s a seal behind this metal plate and then you want to just kind of eat away at the material until you get right in reach up but not cutting into the shaft here the idea is to loosen up and cause the material the pulley to be so thin that it’ll stretch just ever so slightly and then you can gently pry it off I’ve had to do that once or twice it’s not a fun experience it’s better to be prepared and not let the clamshell tool slip in the first place now comes the fun part we can put the new pulley on and the way you do this is a put on the inner shaft push it back all the way then you’ll take the outer half of the pulley line up the bolt holes get some threadlocker blue and put them on all the threads just a little bit will do and then tighten them down little by little and what happens is the outer part of the pulley has a flat spot makes it sit at the correct position and the inside of the pulley is pulled towards it you’re going to want to make this nice and tight one trick I sometimes use to keep things from slipping is put the old belt over the pulley and kind of grab it with a vise grip and then if you kind of twist it it’ll stay and that will let you tighten things up without stuff moving too much you just want to tighten until bottoms out and you can hear kind of chirp a little bit it’s hard to explain but I think you’ll understand when you feel it I’m going to run it down to about probably about 15 foot-pounds all right that’s the hard part take the belt off now we’ll slip the tensioner in wiggle this in there and get that first ten millimeter bolts in I’ll put this bolt in first just to kind of stage it then lower the engine again to get those two

bottom bolts on the bottom ten mil and I’ll raise it back up again we’ll put this last 16-wheeler bolt in for the tensioner arm if your new tensioner came with the pin in the first hole you’re going to want to tension it more there’s a second hole that’s farther down and you’re going to need to put the pin into that hole to be able to slip the belt over unless you’re have a really trusting friend and you’re willing to put your fingers into the belt path while your friend is pulling on the tensioner tool so I’m going to grab that pin and move it to the second hole just like that alright now we’re ready to put the new belt on we’re going to lower the engine enough that the crank harmonic balancer is not pushing up tight against the crash tube the first thing we want to do is put it over the supercharger pulley then we’re going to kind of run counterclockwise we’re going to go over the tensioner pulley over the top of the crankshaft pulley make sure it’s not hung up on any bolts under here as it tends to do sometimes then we’ll run it up to the air conditioner pulley and then over the top of the alternator and then pull it down so that the last place you’re going to put the belt is the idler pulley this is the last part of the belt you’re going to want to slide over as this idler pulley if you have trouble getting it on chances are the ribs are not in the correct space on some of these pulleys it might be riding on the lip or it could be hanging over the edge of a bolt so now we’ll grab the pulley tool again and then for the last time I’m going to pull the tool and remove the pin and now everything is under final tension if you’ve done it right and you got a correct sized belt when the belts brand-new you should be able to fully see the first hole sticking out over the top here the belt will stretch a little bit so that hole will kind of move down a little bit but even when the belts worn you should be able to see all or most of that hole so that’s the toughest part of the job now I’ll put the engine mount back on you may have to pull the engine a little bit to get things to line up or don’t be shy and don’t forget to put the fuel vapor recirculate er over the front bolt hole now we can lower the engine on to the stud here put the EMU limiter bolt back on reconnect the vapor canister this is easily overlooked put the ground strap back on we’ll go ahead and put the wheel liner back in place we’ll reattach the lower engine bracket and the power steering fail and last but not least we’ll replace the spark plugs for the colder running plugs I like to use a bent nose plier I kind of get under here and pry off the boots over here I’ll get on top of this boot and don’t pry on any of these spots here you’re likely to break it so I just pry against the valve cover kind of like that and just pull gentle and people sometimes ask do I need a tune if I just install a pulley and the answer to that is generally no unless you’re going to be driving the car at sustain high speeds on the track the engine might run a little bit lean that high at the highest boost which is not a big deal in the street because you’re only doing it for a few seconds but on the track the temperatures can get pretty hot so I would say if you’re going to be tracking the car yes get a tune if you’re just going to be doing spirited street driving you can get by without one it also depends on what other kind of mods you’re installing the more mods you get the harder time the stock tune is going to have compensating for those mods if you replace the fuel injectors you’re going to definitely need a tune especially if you go for something that’s larger than the JCW 380 CC injectors under partial throttle the car will use a feedback loop to provide the correct air-fuel ratio under wide open throttle it’s going to use whatever values are preset in the tune so if you’re going to be driving the car hard it’s going to be running lean because it’s expecting less air and it’s getting more air now with the bigger pulley since there’s more air going through the fuel delivery is going to be less and it’s going to run a little bit lean lean is bad because things get hot in addition to providing power the fuel

also has a cooling effect so that’s why you want it to run a little bit rich especially under high high power conditions and these are laser platinum Manji k eq u p plugs one lower heat rating than the stock plugs but they are the stock design with the four electrodes this is probably the best plug to go with unless you’re going to be putting the car in the track in which case a brisk racing plug might be a good alternative and these plugs come pre gapped don’t try to gap them you’re probably going to break the center electrode so like it says on the box you’re going to want to tighten it down snug and then you’re going to turn it in extra roughly a half turn so I’m going to go until it’s just bottoms out and then I’ll go about a half turn alright last we’ll put the plug boots back in and on the top of the coil pack there’s numbers here to tell you which one goes where plug number one – it’s easy to mix up three and four so be sure to follow the leads we’ll do three and then four unless you’re having misfire issues I wouldn’t bother replacing the plugs or the wires they’re not something that wears out typically and you don’t really get much performance from upgrading something like that and don’t forget to reconnect that 10 millimeter bolt on the front of the engine here so that’s basically it that’s how to install a 15 16 or 17 percent supercharger pulley in a Mini Cooper S be sure to leave any questions in the comments section below click like share with your friends and subscribe thanks for watching bye bye