Страна окраин\ Land of ruins. Документальный\ Documentary.

Russia is a country of contrasts. No wonder it is the talk of the Russian people Probably in no country in the world, there is no such rich set of cultures, manners and customs collected on one but the incredibly vast territory of 17 million square kilometers It would seem that a single Russian people in 146 five million people, filled with the colors only a variety of nationalities Small peoples of Russia is an incredible kaleidoscope of languages, costumes, customs and rules of life In the North and the East are Asians, whose culture starts in the cold glitter of severe glacial periods In the South – hot southerners, whose ancestors defended their native mountains from hordes of the terrible ruler of half the world – Genghis Khan By the way, and the Tatars themselves, are no longer encroach on the land of Vladimir and Ryazan principalities, but coexist peacefully with their ancestors Evpatii Kolovrat and Ratibor on the streets prettier Kazan There are the proud Scandinavians, whose distant great-grandfathers was rocked by fighting, shouting expanses of the Northern seas Too many to mention And a people, United under his benevolent wing of the eagle all these wonderful small people. And the name of this people Rus. Or, in a modern way – Russian But Russian people, arising from the same Slavic root, heterogeneous in composition The Vladimir, Ryazan, Novgorod, Kaliningrad, Sevastopol, or, in other words, the inhabitants of the European part of Russia – a beautiful people who walk the streets of ancient cities Of course, now, in any Western city, practically meet carved palaces and huts. They modern. They are great. Each has its own rhythm and characteristics Capital of Russia: Moscow – a standard of technology, standard luxury, power and wealth St. Petersburg – the cultural capital of Russia. A vivid example of the triumph of advanced intellectuals United in one locality (among Petersburgers, of course, there are exceptions, but let’s not spoil our story for them) Nevertheless, Russia has another side. As, however, and in any other country. And this side is called in a special way Land of ruins What is there within the borders of Russia! And dense forests of Siberia, and the harsh Caucasus mountains and endless steppes of Transbaikalia – all encompassed 11 five time zones from Kaliningrad to Vladivostok In different regions of the country, the Outback feels different If Moscow is an old, clean little town and village, in the South of the country is a small village in the middle of the vast steppes or villages, with streets which offer just the striking views of snow-capped mountains But my personal opinion – just a sensual, country-backwoods there is the Ural mountains, where it begins the great land of Siberia And in Siberia there are magnificent, modern cities – Krasnoyarsk or Novosibirsk However, it is worth moving away from the regional centers, some 200-300 kilometers away, and the traveler, without using a time machine, will be able to plunge into the colorful atmosphere of a decade or even half a century ago with surprise Here, in the nameless town where the shooting is being conducted, the concept of “fashion” is practically absent People, harsh, not smiling, accustomed to the difficulties of men and women, most often wear what is convenient to work with A hit of any season is a special, camouflage “slide” suit that not only protects against wind and moisture, but also prevents a mosquito or tick bite Here, people most often have only two hobbies – hunting or fishing, which has a dual function – entertainment and food for their family There are no fashionable “jeepers” or “bikers”. Every resident of the country-suburbs, almost from childhood accustomed to get on any vehicle, anywhere on the map, while applying the most sophisticated skills of extreme driving There are few prospects and too much hopelessness I didn’t want to make this film policy Nevertheless, I have to state the fact – while cities accumulate in the business centers of the trillions and billions of rubles, the country-backwoods, most of them froze in a state of 90

And this state of Affairs is entirely the fault of inefficient management, since the death of the Soviet centralized economy, to small towns and villages of Siberia are almost as to shift settlements, and to the wealth of the vast land – as a resource appendage created in order to support a relatively rich West of the country Of course, the regional centers on 100-300 thousand people, can still boast of chain stores and colorful signs on the main streets However, it should be away from them for some 30 to 40 kilometers, and a hypothetical traveler could be in a place where moonshine is sometimes a kind of substitute funds on the turnover of goods and services No, it’s not all that bad. I’m not trying to exaggerate. And in the remote backwater has its intellectuals, enthusiasts, and intellectuals But they are, in fact, the pieces in the vast ocean of the true folk flavor, which went to the Siberians the legacy of the Decembrists, convicts, adventurers, soldiers and officers, once flooded this harsh land with one purpose – to explore the rich depths and bind restive region with the centre by Railways and roads What about the color, if the majority of the cities that cling to the TRANS-Siberian railway – the direct heirs of the GULAG and was created solely as places of concentration of free labor in the form of prisoners Those lands that are far from the railroad, often not enough mastered. So, a vast region conquered by the handful of adventurers for centuries can still boast a conservation, shamanic places and endless ways There are excellent roads. But they are rare. They originated in the Soviet period with the collapse of the Soviet Union rarely grows asphalt arteries in small towns and remote villages As I mentioned earlier, almost all human settlements, harvesting for the railroad here in the place where they filmed the documentary – the heirs of the ill-famous Gulag They originated in 30-50 years of the last century in former perimeters and logging They grew and prospered in the times of Centralized economy of the Soviet Union, when the army of enthusiasts rushed to the road on the orders of the party, with the objective to raise the virgin, to build the greatest dam spanning the wide river And these same settlements as anticompetitive backwater, was cast adrift with the advent of democracy and a market economy Siberia death. The fact that they recognize themselves and inhabitants of the provinces People prefer to move to more civilized places. And no wonder. “Fish searches, where is deeper. Man – where better.” Now in the villages is rarely seen in young people. And if they meet, will not marvel at the squalid condition of body and mind Who could, moved away. Who is smarter and more intelligent, settled on the ground, on the ruins of the red Empire, becoming in the nineties in the present whether the kulaks, or local warlords, whose power is virtually limitless thanks to the earned money There are simple people who have not obtained a corny move. No, they dream, aspire, strive, but the inexorable circumstances, often invisible economic chains chained Siberians to the place of his birth To its small, vast Homeland Such citizens unwittingly become hostages of the syndrome deferred life, which is researched and described by a famous Magadan and Moscow Professor of psychology, Vladimir Serkin Due to the nature of this psychological phenomenon, people believe in the future, but the impossible changes, causing quite careless about the improvement of the present moment, the present place of residence Because of this, the whole economy waste away and fall apart, unfairly having a stigma temporary shelter With the work in the country-the Outback tight Men and women whose education is often limited to nine – eleven classes of school, forced to work where they have to, driven by a constant desire to make a little money Come and bride-price. More often – illegally. Wood, manure, metrocop – everything is in the diet and is kind of the term dowry

Dowry (or, in other words, part-of) – it’s rarely easy money Most often the bride price is heavy, many hours of exhausting work. 10 hours messing around with the manure, you can earn 4 thousand “clean”, which is practically nothing by the standards of Moscow Money is produced with sweat and blood. But the money goes nowhere Earned is not invested in the Bank account. Money don’t buy anything significant. They disappear on immediate needs – putting a child in school, to repair equipment whose period of operation exceeded the imaginable limits They go for products that are much more expensive here than in the West. And of course cigarettes and alcohol (the equivalent of the local entertainment, for lack of better) In some families, the need for alcohol at all and replaces all Of course, the problem of alcoholism is present in large cities and in developed countries, but why here she felt most keenly among the lop-sided fences and double-story houses By the way, the habit of doing the house immediately to the two neighbors (two families) are primarily due to rational considerations of heat preservation In Siberia harsh climate In may, nature may surprise you, relax man gentle warmth of spring, followed by a delicate bite of snow, wind, cold and hail. With weather so unpredictable, which can change several times in one day Gas – natural wealth of this region, rarely penetrates even into large cities, what can we say about the towns, villages and hamlets, the houses in which either supplied with the boiler running on coal or entirely tied to the Queen of any home – big, brick oven, heated with firewood To heat to work and home, and flocks, and even the bath, to carry out all the necessary hygienic procedures Because you need a lot of firewood. Catastrophic lot. While strong and young – will be able to extract the resource itself. In old age – only to purchase from suppliers Given the local pension 171-228 $ and the price of firewood in 50$, it is easy to imagine where it goes the main means of single pensioners All in Siberia goes with a little more work than in the West. In winter, the thermometer can often show forty degrees below zero. In the summer of forty – degree heat Only hardy plants can survive here, so the local garden rarely can boast of a diversity of cultures. But the weeds climb from all sides, threatening to devour the crops Who have no homes, mostly owned suburban area – cottage It is not necessary to draw in the imagination magnificent country Villa. Giving, for the most part, is a small house, sometimes like a barn Garden size rarely exceeds 6 to be acres. The soil requires fertilizer, watering. Greenhouses – an endless process of opening/closing Many cottages abandoned. Old age does not spare the owners of a suburban area, of is especially sad to observe the demise of many gardens In the summer, the farmers and labor complicated by another factor – a large number of small, bloodsucking insects called “midges” If in Soviet times, mosquitoes and gnats grass, now, not always there are funds and to extinguish the ill-famous Siberian fires Midges exhausting. A gnat finds the cracks. Midges are crazy animals and people Apparently so, in the face of a universal enemy, in the face of circumstances people and younger brothers by nature, are often combined, forming incredible alliances One can meet in the homes of compassionate people in the country outskirts! Cats, dogs, and rabbits, and foxes. All of them come to the house often randomly outbred mongrels or injured animals, and then stay forever, becoming family members I won’t say that people from the provinces applies with a little too soft to pet. And yet, sometimes, about the little companion on life’s journey, you can read the eyes, gleaming uncharacteristic warmth (which, however, did not prevent this person to give fatherly cuffs rambunctious or naughty animal) This is a binary attitude to life. To live, either good or bad. Average – almost not given. Yes, the concept of “good”, “bad” is too vague to be constant values

Today, “good”, because have the money for a couple of days ahead. Tomorrow is “bad” because no money, and debts must be given Today, “good”, because the fridge is full. Tomorrow is “bad” because they don’t know where to get even the most simple products for the whole family Such States – an incredible variety, which makes most of the inhabitants of the provinces, enjoy the notorious “stability”, which they say all the Federal channels When you sit in the evening at the TV here, especially funny to watch as Solovyev shakes fists, threatening dissenters. Here in the country-the heartland, his speeches seem blasphemous, divorced from reality Because the region is politically stable – most Siberians are simply still that the events take place in the Urals Everything in the Outback is subordinated to one purpose – the purpose of overcome. Overcome yourself, the complexity and circumstances of relying only on their own strength The state helps a little (you can tell that is not helping at all). Often the presence of “Big brother” feels ghostly, fleeting The state can not provide the remote a worthy system utilities, medicine and social facilities. Too expensive and unprofitable From this, the law often, in the minds of the average inhabitant of the provinces, are imagined hostile element of the unknown system in the thinking of the local population Everyone here knows the saying: “Russia has strict laws that compensation the optionality of their execution”. So they say. Joke among the security forces My friend, who now is on the light, and who was the Colonel of militia, he loved to say: “the Law is like a net for catching fish. Big fish breaks the net.Small fish – remains. ” Big fish – some officials, businessmen, indeed, in the territory of a remote country feel like local princes, for whom the law is not written Fortunately, sometimes Themis also looks into these parts, knocking down arrogance from especially fearless representatives of this stratum of society But those who make millions are most often immune to the law. Therefore, on the roads here you can meet the luxurious Infiniti or Landcruser, which will deliberately and arrogantly overtake the “old Japanese” or “rusty classics.” Another striking contrast that can be found on the streets of an urban-type village or village There are, of course, honest businessmen. And to the credit – their majority. And it is precisely their non-indifference that makes it possible to preserve at least some semblance of life in fading villages and villages In addition, they create the main thing – jobs. But the first and second, most often made their first capital, expropriating the remains of the former empire in the form of abandoned workshops, buildings, collective farms and equipment There are those who just dug metal. Or fell down the forest on special plots – thieves. Legal or semi-legal. The main thing is that with the mind Such people most often think about the consequences of their actions solely for reasons of legal consequences. What will remain alien children and grandchildren is not their business That is why there are so many lacerations in the taiga, in which the forest was seized in a barbaric way, leaving behind an impassable windbreak In the Outback severely disrupted logistics Sometimes, modern fork on the road rested in the impenetrable wall of thicket of trees. Factories full of equipment are abandoned and destroyed over time. Durable building workshops gradually understand the locals, leaving the enterprise-a drummer with no hope of recovery Looking at it, cannot help feeling that there has long been no one and nothing need. And this coincidence is partly justified It is really so Siberia is rich and beautiful. But it is, as they say local – raw materials appendage. Thanks Siberia bloom in the major cities of Russia. Same here, the money comes rarely. And if you reach the money to build a small piece of sanitized Western culture among the vast Eastern mores Attitude to own land, as a raw materials appendage, creates a barbaric attitude to everything that was built, have been built or planned to build. Point the patch is not able to change the picture of the world Because there are cases of vandalism, when zealous young people, destroying cultural sites and places of recreation, falsely representing vandalism “cool” occupation

But everything is so bad? No, of course not! Have the countries of the outskirts and its advantages A visitor from a big city, having been in our small town, dreamy said that this town is a perfect place to raise and educate children Nonsense, you say? Not at all! An urban-type settlement – a cross between the district center and the village. There is still enough shops to provide for themselves, their home and their technique all necessary These stores are also evolving, so even if on the shelves you will not find the required details – shipping will quickly bring the search within a few days Yes, the price is a little higher, I’ve talked about this. But… these are the laws harsh, Russian business A major plus of a small town or village is the best environment. Nature is in walking distance. Leave the city do not need to plan. It is necessary only to fold into a backpack, a thermos, some food, and go to meet with the Siberian taiga From my well-maintained, five-story building, for example, to the river some 600 meters. It is unlikely that someone can boast of in the center of Moscow or Peter, isn’t it? With work tight… but not everywhere. You can find such places came the oil or gas, creating the infrastructure and creating jobs. And on the Railways will always require a pair of strong hands Education. Children, in the country suburbs, grow more correctly and freely, than their peers from big cities. My wife’s brother, at the age of 12-14 years old already knew how to safely handle a chainsaw.At age 16, he first sat down at an empty timber truck and successfully reached his destination No, of course, not everything is so good. Globalization and modern technical means have penetrated into the country of the outskirts, imposing a settled lifestyle on yesterday’s fidgets near the notorious Personal Computer or in an unbreakable connection with a smartphone Soon, the skills of working, strong youth, globalization will gobble up here too – a matter of time And yet, so far, young people from the hinterland hold positions, skillfully handling both the plow, and the timber truck, and the gun, which gives them a significant margin of survival in force majeure situations, in our turbulent time Outback, people are a little easier. You do not expect a trick, since everyone knows everything about everyone, even before the meeting There is more free time and much less fuss. But this is already something, especially for introverts, isn’t it? So what is a remote country? Will this country have a future? The people inhabiting its open spaces? Reason time. The outback country will wait. Decades. Century. How much is needed. To sternly look through the eyes of descendants at our deeds or our inaction. And on the endless, peasant patience, obedience to fate, which does not fit in with the requirements of the 21st century Sincerely, Ivan Vologdin